Should I do it?
Whether you find yourself newly inspired by a celebrity's hairstyle, have always wondered what you’d look like with pink hair, or are simply jonesing for something new—besides bangs—changing your shade is a simple way to punch up your look. Sure, going to the salon is optimal—but if you’d rather save money doing it at home yourself, here’s everything you need to know to ensure the answer to “Should I dye my hair?” is a resounding “Yes!”
First, ask yourself if you're ready for the upkeep.
Like cutting bangs, dying your hair is a real time commitment—especially if you’re choosing a color that’s far from your natural one, which means more maintenance. “That’s why balayage, which creates natural-looking ‘melted’ color—progressing from deeper at the roots to lighter toward the ends—is so popular," explains Beth Minardi, founder and creative director of Beth Minardi Signature Professional hair color and creative colorist at Warren Tricomi Salon in New York City.
She adds, “If you’re covering gray, choose a shade that’s a tiny bit lighter and warmer than your natural shade to minimize maintenance. Highlights that don’t touch the scalp will also blend the gray longer.”
When retouching roots yourself, Minardi advises applying color only to fresh, virgin growth, then slathering the rest with a deep conditioner that you leave on while the color processes.”
Especially if you're considering pink... or blue.
Crayola hues can be a fun way to express personality, but the process and upkeep is even more labor-intensive. You can’t just go from dark brunette to pink; you’ll need to lighten your hair first.
“If you’re blonde, you can simply apply the color and then process as directed. However, if your hair is not blonde, you’ll need to bleach it first, which might cause damage, depending on the hair’s starting condition," explains Minardi. She recommends choosing a color that bills itself as conditioning. “Most will fade in 6 to 12 shampoos, depending on your hair’s porosity—the more porous your hair is, the faster the color will fade.” As far as maintenance goes, apply shampoo to roots only and rinse it in cold water, she advises.
Still interested? “Ask yourself why you want this color and if it will fit with your lifestyle and job,” says Minardi. “If not—or if your hair is not already in great condition—consider clip-in hair extensions instead for a temporary color pop.”
You'll probably be paying more for shampoo and conditioner.
Dyed hair requires special color-safe shampoos and conditioners to keep your shade looking vibrant, not faded. “First, don’t over-cleanse—lathering once is sufficient—especially if you shampoo daily,” says Minardi.
“Choose lower pH products that say ‘color-safe’ or ‘smoothing,’ because they close the cuticle, locking the color in and leaving the surface of the hair shiny. Avoid products that say ‘volumizing’ (they open the cuticle), ‘thickening’ (they coat the hair) or ‘deep cleansing’/‘chelating’ (they can remove your color).”
Coloring at home? Don’t expect the shade to perfectly match the box.
Hoping for Champagne Blonde? Sure…but would you settle for Cream Soda? There’s a reason multiple shade photos are listed—your final color might end up darker or lighter than you expect.
“The image on the box shows the result when the color is applied to pure, not previously colored and is usually heavily retouched or even computer-generated. But your outcome is based on many variables—including your color’s starting level, your percentage of gray, if your hair was previously processed, and if you have build up from hard water." Think of the photos on the boxes as a road map, rather than a rule.